Beyond the looking glass: Giorgio Armani’s timeless legacy in China

Fashion Week in Milan, September 19, 2024. REUTERS/Claudia Greco

The life and career of Giorgio Armani have shaped both fashion and the world at large. Following the news of his passing, thousands lined the streets of Milan to bid farewell to the late fashion icon.

In a photograph from the Associated Press, a man waiting to pay his respects held a bouquet of flowers and a note to the family of “Signor Giorgio Armani,” written in two languages: Italian and Mandarin.

This multilingual note is a small but powerful testament to Giorgio Armani’s global impact. From runways in Milan to offices in Manhattan, from sports stadiums in America to tranquil riversides in China, Armani’s influence is reminiscent of his design ethos: subtle and fluid, yet profound and empowering.

On Chinese social media, an outpouring of mourning has emerged from those who crossed paths with him as assistants, workers, interns, or students during his many trips to China over three decades. People remembered not only his design and talent but also his personal qualities—his elegance, professionalism, warmth, and the deep respect he showed for other people and cultures.

An Architect of Modern Chinese Luxury

Giorgio Armani’s foresight to enter the Chinese mainland market in the late 1990s, when the country’s luxury market was still nascent, cannot be overstated. Armani’s arrival coincided with a period when an increasingly open and rapidly changing China was looking at the world—fashion included—with wide eyes and intense curiosity, all while searching for its own modern identity, aesthetics, and design narrative.

city of Chengdu

Against this historic backdrop, Armani became an educator, mentor, ambassador, and tastemaker of fashion in China. He didn’t just enter the country to sell clothes; he introduced a new philosophy of dressing: understated elegance, superior tailoring, and luxurious fabrics over ostentatious logos. This aesthetic of “quiet luxury,” long before it became a global trend, resonated deeply with both traditional Chinese cultural elements and the mindsets of China’s new generation of entrepreneurs and professionals.

Meanwhile, the Armani suit’s universal appeal—a global symbol of professional authority and refined taste for both men and women in corporate and political spheres—was wholeheartedly embraced in China, further solidifying the designer’s legacy.

A Blueprint for Fashion Empires

From a business perspective, the Armani Group’s multi-brand, multi-product strategy has enabled the fashion house to capitalize on China’s large, diverse, and nuanced consumer base. The portfolio is strategically tiered: Giorgio Armani for established, wealthy clients; Emporio Armani as a “gateway brand” for aspiring consumers; Armani Exchange for affordable, contemporary fashion; and Armani Casa for luxury lifestyle and home goods. This approach, when well-executed, balances prestige with reach and exclusivity with accessibility.

Beyond retail, Armani has left a tangible legacy through interior design and architecture. His flagship boutiques on Shanghai’s Bund and in Beijing’s China World Mall were meticulously crafted to his aesthetic. The Armani Art Apartments in Chengdu were infused with his interior design philosophy. These spaces present a complete, curated Armani lifestyle, physically embedding his design language into China’s urban landscape.

A Vision of Digital Disruption

Given Armani’s emphasis on timeless beauty and his rejection of fleeting trends, a perhaps surprising aspect of his strategy in China is the company’s forward-thinking embrace of latest technologies. Armani was one of the first major luxury brands to adopt China’s home-grown digital innovations, leveraging diverse tools and platforms, including mobile apps, e-commerce sites, social media, and live streaming. By integrating physical stores with digital experiences, Armani has successfully engaged a new generation of Chinese consumers.

A Designer’s DNA

The Armani Group possesses a unique and increasingly rare character. Compared to many other fashion corporations, it remains a wholly independent fashion house where decisions are driven not solely by markets and capital, but by design and the philosophy of its designers.

Giorgio Armani’s Legacy

Elegance is not about being noticed, it’s about being remembered

Giorgio Armani once said. In China, the elegance of Giorgio Armani will most certainly be remembered by the fashion community, by the people, and within the very fabric of Chinese modernity itself.